KANIZ

Courts & Empires

The Empress Who Collected Hundreds of Shawls

A royal wardrobe. Hundreds of shawls. And a fashion obsession that crossed continents.

Portrait of Empress Joséphine in her coronation robes, seated beside the throne
François Gérard, Empress Joséphine in Coronation Robes, 1807–08. Public domain.

Joséphine, Empress of France and wife of Napoleon Bonaparte, became one of the most celebrated admirers of Kashmir shawls. A historical account quoted by the Fondation Napoléon describes her collection at her residence in Navarre as containing around 150 shawls, while other accounts give larger estimates. She was fascinated by their colours, designs and extraordinary beauty.

The shawls were so much more than winter accessories. They complemented the fashionable, high-waisted dresses of the Empire period, adding colour and luxurious draping to relatively simple silhouettes.

Kashmir shawl with large paisley motifs in red, pink and black, mid-19th century
Shawl, Kashmir, mid-19th century. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Kate C. Lefferts, 1973 (1973.195.29). Public domain.
End of a Kashmir shawl with a lobed medallion, paisley ornament and a fringed, arched border
Shawl, Kashmir, mid-19th century. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Paul Bronson, in memory of Anna Fleiss Bronson, 1924 (24.82). Public domain.

Joséphine reportedly commissioned or sought out designs featuring roses, cornflowers, parrots and peacocks.

The fascinating detail: her enthusiasm helped make Kashmir shawls objects of desire in European fashion. A textile made thousands of kilometres away became a coveted part of the imperial wardrobe.

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