KANIZ

Courts & Empires

The Emperor Who Turned Shawls into Royal Currency

In the Mughal court, a shawl could say more than words.

Mughal painting: Emperor Akbar enthroned, receiving the Iranian ambassador and his gifts
Akbar receives the Iranian ambassador Sayyid Beg, double page from the Akbarnama, composition by La’l, painted by Ibrahim Kahar and Nand, Mughal India, c. 1590–95. Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Public domain.

During the reign of the Mughal emperors, Kashmir shawls became prestigious garments associated with courtly life. Expensive textiles were used in the practice of khil’at, a robe of honour presented by a ruler to recognise service, loyalty or achievement. Such gifts were not simply clothing; they communicated favour, rank and political relationships.

A finely made shawl could therefore carry a message without a single word being spoken.

Imagine receiving a textile whose value lay not only in its softness, but in the fact that an emperor had chosen it as a mark of honour.

The story behind the gift: before Kashmiri shawls became prized accessories in European wardrobes, they were already part of the visual language of power in South Asian royal courts.

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